This evening after a walk to the local flower shop with Tomacz and Maryellen, an entourage in three separate cars drove out to Humam's farm, which is (with my very limited understanding of the layout of the city of Amman), somewhere in the direction of the airport. And Aqaba if you decide to drive another 400 km or so. It's Thursday night, so traffic was totally insane, and for the first time since being here, I was almost car-sick. When we arrived at Humam's farm, it was already dark and many people were already gathered preparing for a party. As per usual, hummus and pita adorned the table along with cognac and wine brought especially for this birthday celebration. After eating and drinking a while, Humam played many traditional songs on buzuq and his sister played nay and danced. And had many of us dance with her. How wonderful and ridiculous! We also all tried to play the nay - equally ridiculous and so difficult! I was unable to make a sound - but Yoo-Jin was a rock-star!
Dinner consisted of roasted chicken (rubbed with vinegar and stuffed with rice, cashews, and spices), kusa (stuffed squash), stuffed grape leaves, a variation on fatoush, and another type of rice. Oh my goodness - how delicious! The farm is far enough outside of center-city Amman that you could see more stars than usual. The birthday cake was divine. And we sang happy birthday to Nadeen in at least 3 languages.
The hospitality and sense of family I felt this evening was totally overwhelming and wonderful. It made me nostalgic in a way that I've not yet experienced: thinking about coming home next year and realizing how much I'm going to miss many of the people I've met and grown fond of here in Amman. And the beautiful city. And this warm, welcoming culture.
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