Good morning, Amman!

Lisa frequents an 8 AM daily Mass here and I tagged along this morning. Our walk there was so peaceful. I have never seen the streets of Amman so empty. For 7:45 in the morning, it makes complete cultural sense, especially considering that is Friday, the holy day of 90% of the population here. The vast majority were still asleep, in fact, at 9:30 when we were walking back from the Church. All except for the sanitation workers who were sweeping the streets and watering honeysuckle, and the guards who were standing with their machine guns attempting to appear as serious as possible. I think I might appear this way, too, if I was forced to hold a gun all day.

Mass was really lovely - quiet in the morning stillness and entirely in Arabic - and so peaceful. What a different vibe from this past Sunday. There were only nine people in the entire Church: Father Ya'koub, four Sisters, Lisa, myself, and two other women. Afterward, one of the Sisters approached Lisa and I and asked why we were in Amman. We told her we are teaching music, and she invited us to the Convent at some time in the future. It was at this time that Father Ya'koub motioned to us from behind the alter that we should come forward. He welcomed us, and surprisingly to me, remembered my name. He told me, "how could one forget such a face - you have the moon of Heaven in your face." I don't know that I've ever felt so flattered. He invited us to a delicious breakfast of toasted pita, labna (a soft cheese of cream cheese consistency), hard, salty cheese, honey, olive oil, sweet sesame paste, olives, tea, and coffee. He could tell that I was unsure of what to make of the cheeses, and he poured some olive oil into my dish, explaining that it is sheer sin to waste this olive oil. Once I tried, I understood completely; it was absolutely the best olive oil I have ever tasted. He then took both cheeses and poured them into the oil. He instructed me to watch Lisa, who was smashing the oil and cheese together with her fork. I was then instructed to spread this delicious mixture on the toasted pita topped with the honey. I felt like I finally found a taste for the soul of Arabia - the true essence of Middle-Eastern culture - in that first bite. What a wonderful meal. What a wonderful morning. What beautiful community. What hospitality and humbleness were delivered to me this morning.

I am fighting the temptation to go back to sleep, and am planning to be in bed early tonight. We'll see what actually happens.

I am missing the smell of the woods and autumn in the Northeast, but wouldn't trade my current experiences for anything.